This is an article published in Tillergraph about a customer of ours who’s boat I was blacking.
The first time the boat was dry docked by us it was quite evident that any existing rust had never been cleaned of before blacking and it they had just over painted it, unfortunately it ultimately (4 years later) resulted in a small hole that cost a lot of money.
February half term is a busy week or two for us at Thorn Marine.
For those of you who don’t know we have a day boat and a small boat we have had for a few years that we have never done any thing with.
Half term and the week after is our time to black the bottom and re paint the sides and roof, I will explain more about the repainting in my next post.
During the two weeks I also had a customers boat to black as well so that is 1 x 36′ 1 x 30′ and 1 x 40′, Whilst doing this I got to thinking, nobody ever discusses blacking and what it involves. I decided to have a think about what questions you should ask when getting you bottom blacked.
1. What surface preparation do you need to do?
This can range from a quick jet wash through wire brushing or scabbling to grit blasting. I know of some companies who just give the hull a quick jet wash to get rid of the weed growth and then black the boat, they do nothing about any rust build up on the surface.
2. If your previous coats of bitumen are stuck on well do you need to remove them?
3. What has the boat been painted with previously?
Comastic, Bitumen, epoxy.
This effects what you can use and what surface prep needs to be done epoxy needs to go on clean steel, comastic cannot be put on top of bitumen.
4. What product are you using?
Are they using a product specifically designed for use on boats, under the water or just a roofing product that is designed to get wet occasionally and then dry out. Rylard paints have two products that are designed to be used together one that works in to all the marks etc on the hull and a much thicker one to give film thickness.
5. How many coats are being applied and how thick are they?
The Rylard paint system is 2-3 coats, International recommend between 2 and 5 coats, depending on application method.
6. What drying times and launch times are used?
Most bitumen products require 8-24 hours between coats and 24-48 hours before submersion.
7. What else will be checked when blacking?
Anodes, are they in the right place how much longer will they last.
Prop condition, bits missing or bent.
Stern gear, is there any movement/excessive play.
Rudder condition, bolts corded etc.
General hull condition, pits, corrosion etc.
Welds, are the rubbing straights continuously welded, etc.
8. Do you paint inside the weed hatch/cover?
Some people don’t remove the weed hatch. The tape may need to be replaced as well.
9. A great one to start and argument is does the bottom plate get a coat!
Let me make one thing clear this is not a guide to painting your hull/getting it painted. I am not a surveyor or have any steel/chemistry qualifications, these are just the thoughts of a guy who has been in the industry for about 20 years and have blacked a few boats over the years. Some have been great some have been so badly blacked before they will need the sides over plating.
All I want this to do is to make you think about how your boat is blacked. Remember a boat without a hull is not a boat! You may not see it but the bit in the water it is the most important bit!
Don’t forget to call in and see us at Thorn Marine on you way to the festival.
If you need any thing you can order and pay online and collect form the shop, alternatively come and have a rummage through the shop with all the new shelves and racking. to quote a phrase used by many of my customer “a Proper Chandlery”
I decided to go and take a look at Walton bridge as I had not been to see it yet and was pleased and surprised to see the repairs well under way.
I was however a little shocked to see the bricks they were using, I thought it was a listed structure and therefore would have to be in keeping, suitable materials, etc.
This is what I found:
And a Close up
Now I am now expert but it looks very different! They don’t appear to be the same type of brick. Obviously it will age with time but the old brick have black burnt bits on then the new ones don’t. It looks like a nice job when you look at this.
Looking at it it might cause some confusion and this looks like a new bridge, but the Toast Rack (A56) bridge is Walton New Bridge according to Pearsons Cheshire Ring.
As it was not a breach maybe we should call it a leak, anyway its fixed, YES!!!!!!! I hear you cry, however, repairs to the wash walls from Preston Brook Tunnel to Soothill bridge (200) means the canal is still closed. BOO!!!!
A rumor that is being circulated around here is that they are planning to repair all the canal walls around the area of the breach, and that it is going to cost over £80 Million to do and CaRT are planning to get a bank loan to do it! Wow wish I had a bank that would loan against mud and water!
This week has mainly been catching up with my every day work at the shop. The online chandlery has taken a bit a of a back step this week, I am still hoping for it to go live on the 1st March, probably with a few less lines that than I wanted but is’s a start.
Need to look at the marketing next, watch out for the next generation of “We’ve been to Thorn Marine” window stickers, just working on our free gift to give away with every purchase…….. There may be 2!!!!!!
So remember “Buy before you go” and make Canalstore “Your 1st port of call”
I haven’t actually been to see the bridge yet as we were busy finishing the dayboat ready to go back in the water, but on the way home I found the bits that were knocked of, they are on one of the work floats at Massey Brook, Lymm.